Tuesday, 20 September 2016

Pandoro ("zlatni hleb") - Pandoro ("golden bread")


Povukla me znatiželja, večita dilema: Pandoro ili Panetone?! Izabrala sam - Pandoro, tradicionalni italijanski "slatki" hleb, karakterističan za Veronu. Peče se u dubokoj zvezdastoj modli....  Međutim, baš mi se žurilo da isprobam recept, nisam imala vremena da po gradu jurim odgovarajući kalup. Sasvim dobro je poslužio pleh za kuglof, koji sam imala u kući. Svakako se ne bih usudila da Italijanima poslužim pandoro u obliku kuglofa. To bi verovatno protumačili kao ultimativno nepoštovanje tradicije. Oblik, naravno, uopšte nije umanjio ukus ovog hleba nalik na brioš. Modlu ću kupiti, kada nеgde natrčim...

Sastojci - jednostavni (brašno, šećer, jaja, kvasac, puter, kora limuna). Ukus - isto tako jednostavno fantastičan! Postupak pripreme -  jednostavan, ali dugotrajan (zamesiš, naraste, pa opet nešto dodaš, pa da odstoji... i tako nekoliko puta). Zato u međuvremenu svašta po kući može da se obavi.
Naravo, svaka italijanska domaćica ima svoj tajni recept koji je nasledila... Italijani za mešenje pandoro hleba koriste manitoba brašno. Ja sam koristila domaće, tip 400 (poslužiće i tip "00"). Ako u blizini možete da nađete manitoba brašno - onda ga upotrebite.

Vrlo je praktično prethodno odmeriti sve sastojke, razvrstati u činijice i samo dodavati po redosledu kako stoji u receptu.

1. "Maja" iliti starter
U manjoj činiji rastvoriti 16g svežeg kvasca (ili 5g suvog kvasca) u 33g mlake vode, dodati malo po malo, ukupno 65g brašna i zamesiti glatko testo. Oblikovati kuglicu, staviti u činiju, pokriti providnom folijom, ostaviti na toplom mestu da naraste i udvostruči zapreminu, što može da potraje i do 90min, u zavisnosti od temperature.

2. Prvo testo
U posudu za mućenje staviti "maju" (starter), dodati 120g brašna, 30g šećera i početi mešenje mikserom (sa nastavcima za testo). Dodati u par navrata ukupno 65g celih jaja. Razbijem dva komada, malo umutim viljuškom da se razbiju žumanca, pa onda odvadim višak ako je teže od 65g. Mutiti/mesiti 10-15min, da testo postane glatko i elastično, odvaja se od zidova posude. Može i rukom da se mesi, ali je konfornije mikserom.

Ponovo oblikovati loptu, staviti u činiju, pokriti providnom folijom, ostaviti na toplom mestu da naraste i udvostruči zapreminu, što može da potraje i do 90min, u zavisnosti od temperature.

3. Drugo testo
U naraslo prvo testo dodati 250g brašna, 130g šećera, 14g meda, 28g žumanaca, par kapi ekstrakta vanile (ili sastrugano seme, ili kesicu vanilin šećera), narendanu koru od 2 limuna. Mikserom/ručno mesiti nekoliko minuta. Ne prekidajući mešenje, dodati u nekoliko navrata ukupno 160g celih jaja. Kada se jaja absorbuju, dodati, malo po malo, ukupno 185g omekšalog putera (na sobnoj temperaturi). Mesiti mikserom/ručno 30-40 minuta, ali stvarno toliko dugo. U početku masa izgleda retko i u toku mešenja polako počinje da dobija glatku strukturu, da se odvaja od zidova posude. Ukoliko Vam se učini da ipak treba dodati još malo brašna, slobodno dodajte (količina brašna ipak zavisi od tipa koji se koristi). Ipak, imajte na umu da nikako ne sme da se pretera sa brašnom! Testo treba da ostane meko, glatko i vrlo rastegljivo.

Radnu površinu i ruke posuti brašnom (umesto brašna mogu da se zamaste ruke i radna površina), kratko mesiti testo, formirati loptu ili drugi oblik, u zavisnosti od pleha. Testo spustiti u dobro podmazan kalup, odozgo premazati nekom masnoćom (puter, ulje, mast) da se ne formira korica, pokriti i ostaviti da narasta 2-3h (udvostruči zapreminu i prilično popuni pleh).

Pandoro pažljivo spustiti u rernu prethodno zagrejanu na 150°C. Treba paziti da pleh ne udari u nešto, jer će testo da splasne. Bocnuti da se proveri kada je pandoro pečen, ali sigurno treba bar 35min.

Pečen pandoro izvaditi iz pleha, posuti prah šećerom i ostaviti da se potpuno ohladi. Ako treba da odstoji dan-dva, ostaviti da se dobro ohladi, uviti u papir za pečenje, pa staviti u kesu, da se ne bi osušio.

Pandoro može da se posluži uz kafu, mleko, čaj, preliven čokoladom, uz maskarpone krem i jagode, sladoled... ostatke upotrebite za ređanje "zuppa inglese" (kremasta poslastica u čaši nalik na trifle).

Sastojci:
1. "Maja" iliti starter - 16g svežeg kvasca (ili 5g suvog kvasca), 33g mlake vode, 65g brašna (manitoba, tip 400 ili tip 00)
2. Prvo testo - 120g brašna (manitoba, tip 400 ili tip 00), 30g šećera, 65g celih jaja.
3. Drugo testo - 250g brašna, 130g šećera, 14g meda, 28g žumanaca, par kapi ekstrakta vanile (ili sastrugano seme, ili kesicu vanilin šećera), narendana kora od 2 limuna, 160g celih jaja, 185g putera.


Pandoro ("golden bread")

I couldn't resist... an Italian dilemma - pandoro vs panetone. I chose - pandoro, traditional sweet yeast Veronese bread. It is baked in a star shaped mold... However, I was impatient to try the recipe, and I did not have time to chase the right mold, so it was baked in a ring mold pan. Some Italians would certainly interpret it as the ultimate disrespect for tradition. The form, of course, does not diminish the taste of this bread like brioche. I'll by the right mold another time...

Ingredients - simple (flour, sugar, eggs, yeast, butter, lemon zest). Taste - also, simply fantastic! The process of preparation - simple, but time consuming (knead, rise, then add something, knead, rise...). However, in the meantime, a lot of things around the house could be done.

Of course, every Italian housewife has her own secret recipe, inherited... For pandoro they use Manitoba flour. I used all purpose flour (or "00" type).

It is helpful to weigh all ingredients before start.

1. Starter
In a small bowl put 33g of lukewarm water and dissolve 16g fresh yeast (or 5g dry yeast), add a little at a time, a total of 65g of flour and knead. Form small ball, put in a bowl, cover with plastic foil, leave in a warm place to rise and double the volume (it takes up to 90 minutes, depending on the temperature).

2. The first dough
In a larger bowl transfer the starter, add 120g flour, 30g sugar and kneading with mixer (with the dough hook). Gradually add 65g whole eggs. It is not tricky at all to weigh the eggs - crack egg, break it with fork and then measure the required amount. Mix or knead by hand 10-15min, to become smooth and elastic. It is more comfortable to use the hand mixer.

Again, form the ball, put it in a bowl, cover with cling film, leave in a warm place to rise and double the volume (up to 90 minutes, depending on the temperature).

3. The second dough
Now, add the following ingredients to the first dough: 250g flour, 130g sugar, 14g honey, 28g egg yolks, a few drops of vanilla extract (or scraped seed, or vanilla sugar), 2 lemons zest. Mix/knead a few minutes, while mixing, add gradually 160g whole eggs. When eggs are absorbed, gradually add 185g softened butter (at room temperature). Mix/knead 30-40 minutes, and it really takes that long. At first the dough seems runny, but while mixing, the texture gets smooth. If, it seems to runny, feel free to add some flour, because the quantity needed in the recipe may vary (depends of the quality, type, moisture content, gluten content...). However, keep in mind that dough should be soft and smooth. DO NOT overload it with flour.

Sprinkle the hands and working surface with some flour (instead of flour, you can grease hands and working surface), knead the dough with hands to form a ball (or shape it to fit the baking pan). Put the dough into a greased pan, brush the top with some melted butter (oil or, lard), to prevent the crust forming, cover and let it rise for 2-3 hours (to double the volume and almost fill the pan).

Very carefully put the pandoro into the oven (preheated to 150°C). You really need to take care not to bump the pan into something because it would deflate your precious dough. Bake until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, at least 35min.

Let it cool for 10min, and then turn the Pandoro over on a rack, sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and leave to cool completely. If you need to keep the pastry for a day or two, let it cool completely, wrap it baking paper and place it in the bag, to prevent drying.

Pandora can be served along with coffee, milk, tea, coated with melted chocolate, mascarpone cream and strawberry ice cream ... the leftovers can be used for making some "zuppa inglese" (creamy desserts in the glasses, like a trifle).

Ingredients:
1. Starter - 16g fresh yeast (or 5g dry yeast), 33g lukewarm water, 65g all purpose flour (Manitoba or type 00)
2. The first dough - 120g all purpose flour (Manitoba or type 00), 30g sugar, 65g whole eggs.
3. The second dough - 250g all purpose flour (Manitoba or type 00), 130g sugar, 14g honey, 28g egg yolks, few drops of vanilla extract (or scraped seeds, or a bag of vanilla sugar), 2 lemons zest, 160g whole eggs, 185g butter.

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