Friday 14 February 2020

Makedonska pita - Pastrmajlija - Traditional Macedonian pie


Pastrmajlija je rustična makedonska pita od hlebnog testa, nafilovana mesom i zalivena razmućenim jajima. Često je ovalnog oblika sa venčićem od testa po obodu, ali praktičnije je napraviti je u velikom plehu. Nekada je pečena u furuni na drva. Nekada nije bilo zamrzivača i frižidera, pravila se od ovčijeg sušenog mesa. Nekada je bila "sirotinjska hrana" kojom su domaćice sa malo mesa i još par jednostavnih sastojaka uspevale da nahrane mnogobrojnu porodicu.

Tada, kao i sada, pastrmajlija za stolom okupi celu porodicu. Svi se raduju kada kuhinju ispuni predivan miris tek ispečene pite!!! Taj trenutak probudi posebne  emocije i sećanje na detinjstvo, naročito pojedinih članova porodice kojima su bake i dede - makedonci, baš ovakvu pastrmajliju spremali za večeru.

Kao i kod mnogih tradicionalnih jela, diskutuje se gde je tačno nastala, koja varijacija je originalna, bolja... da li je bitno?! Pravim je onako kako me je deda Laza naučio, a on je znao jer je odrastao u  Makedoniji. I baš mi se tako najviše dopada!

Iseći na kocke oko 700g svinjskog mesa od vrata (treba da je prošarano masnoćom). Uvaljati ga rukom u začin od sušenog povrća, dodati biber, majčinu dušicu, so, malo ulja... meso treba da je baš dosta začinjeno i prilično slano. Ovako pripremljeno, spakovati u posudu sa poklopcem i ostaviti u frižideru da odstoji dan-dva. Meso će lepo upiti začine i smekšati.

Pred pečenje treba pripremiti obično hlebno testo.

U 400ml mlake vode staviti kašiku šećera, pola kocke svežeg kvasca (oko 20g), posuti prstohvatom brašna i sačekati kvasac da počne da radi (pojave se mehurići po površini i formira se pena). Zatim u vanglu ili drugu posudu za mešenje sipati dve šolje brašna, punu kašičicu soli, izručiti vodu i kvasac,  3-4 kašike ulja, rukom mesiti testo uz dodavanje brašna "po potrebi" - testo treba da postane glatko, ne mnogo tvrdo, odvaja se od zidova posude. Ovako umešeno testo pokriti vlažnom krpom i staviti na toplo mesto da naraste. Kada se zapremina testa udvostručila, premesiti ga, izručiti u podmazani pleh (npr. pleh od rerne veličine oko 30x40cm) i rukom rastanjiti da se lepo pokrije dno. Testo premazati sa malo rastopljene masti... Ili, na dlanove staviti komad masti, malo utrljati pa tako masnim dlanovima rastanjiti testo - em se ne lepi za ruke, em ne mora posebno da se premazuje. Za razliku od pice, Makedonska pita treba da ima deblje testo. Recimo da je nepečeno testo debljine oko 1,5cm a kada se ispeče to bude 2-3cm. Preko testa poređati komadiće mesa, ostaviti da odstoji na toplom 10-15min pre pečenja. Za to vreme uključiti rernu da se zagreje na 250 ०C. Kada je rerna zagrejana, staviti pitu da se peče i odmah smanjiti temperaturu na 180-200 ०C. Pita je pečena kada su pečeni i testo, i mesance (rumeno i meko). Žicom umutiti 7-8 jaja sa malo soli, pečenu pitu izvaditi iz rerne, zaliti je jajima i vratiti na još nekoliko minuta da se jaja zapeku. Jaja ne treba da ostanu rovita...

Služiti toplu, uz jogurt, kiselo mleko, mileram ili pivce. Bilo da se peče u furuni na drva ili u rerni, Makedonska pita zaslužuje puuuno zvezdica!!!

Sastojci: oko 700g svinjskog vrata bez kosti, začin od sušenog povrća, majčina dušica, so, biber, 20g kvasca (pola kockice), 1 kašika šećera, brašno (po potrebi), 3-4 kašike ulja, 7-8 jaja.

Pastrmajlija - Traditional Macedonian pie

Pastrmajlija is a Macedonian rustic bread dough pie, topped with meat and eggs. Usually it is oval shaped with a rim of dough around the edge, but it is more practical to make it in a large pan.

Traditionally it was baked in a wood-fired oven, as a kind of meal for the poor people - to feed large family using a piece of meat and few more simple ingredients.

Now, as then, this pie gathered the whole family around the table. The smell of baked pastrmajlija makes everybody happy! That moment awakens childhood memories, especially for family members of Macedonian origin.

As with many traditional dishes, there is controversy over where exactly it came from, which variation is original, which one is better... does it really matter?! I make it the way my husband's grandfather taught me, and he knew the right recipe because he grew up in Macedonia. I like this version!

Cut into cubes about 700g of pork neck meat (do not trim the fat). Season with dried vegetable spice, black pepper, thyme, salt, add some oil... the meat should be quite spicy and salty. Put in a food container, cover with lid and leave in refrigerator for a day or two. The meat will absorb the spices  and become tender.

Before baking, make the simple bread dough.

In a 400ml of lukewarm water put a tablespoon of sugar, fresh yeast (about 20g), sprinkle with a pinch of all purpose flour and wait for the yeast to dissolve (foam forms on the top). Pour two cups of all purpose flour in a kneading bowl, add a teaspoon of salt, dissolved yeast, 3-4 tablespoons of oil, knead the dough by hand, adding more flour "as needed" to obtain smooth not too thick dough.  Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel, put it in a warm place and let the dough rise until doubled the volume. When the dough is ready, punch it to release the air bubbles, transfer to a greased large baking tray (about 30x40cm) and flatten using your hands. Brush with some melted lard... Unlike pizza, Macedonian pie should have a thicker crust. Let's say, unbaked dough is about 1.5cm thick and when baked it will be 2-3cm. Put the marinated pieces of meat over the dough. Let the pie "rest" for 10-15 minutes before baking. Preheat the oven to 250 ०C. Put the pie in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 180-200 ०C. Meanwhile whisk 7-8 eggs with some salt. Take the baked pie out of the oven, pour the eggs all over and back in the oven for another few minutes to bake the eggs. Eggs should not be runny...

Serve warm. Yogurt, creme fraiche or beer will match perfectly. Whether baking in a wood fired oven or in the regular oven, the Macedonian Pie Pastrmajlija is a five stars treat!!!

Ingredients: about 700g boneless pork neck, dried vegetable seasoning, thyme, salt, pepper, 20g yeast (half a dice), 1 tablespoon sugar, all purpose flour (as needed), 3-4 tablespoons oil, 7-8 eggs.