Friday, 13 May 2022

Reform torta - Reform cake (vintage walnut and chocolate cake)

Reform torta jedna je od princeza među finim tortama. Recepti naših baka su isti, ili vrlo slični. Evo, dajem svoj doprinos, da od zaborava sačuvamo te predivne naše torte, jednostavne a ipak remek dela poslastičarstva.      

Za svaku tortu važi princip da se pravi natenane i uz dobro raspoloženje. Ne ide na brzaka! Prema tome, osim neophodnih sastojaka, treba imati vremena, strpljenja, da se pravi sa puno ljubavi, posvećenosti i da vam niko ne smeta! 
Prvo razmisliti koja veličina torte je potrebna i koje su veličine plehova kojima raspolažete. 

Možete je napraviti na puno načina, kao na primer:
- pravougaonu "duguljastu" (oko 13x40cm) - rerna treba da je veća od standardnih, da bi u nju stao pleh dimenzija 40x40cm, peče se jedna korica koja se nakon hlađenja podeli na tri jednaka dela. Muti se korica od 8-10 belanaca.
- pravougaonu ali malo širu (oko 20x30cm) - to su dimenzije onih klasičnih limenih plehova koje su najčešće koristile naše mame i bake za pečenje kolača. Jedna korica - 4 belanca (125g šećera, 125g mlevenih oraha, opciono 1 ravna kašika brašna). 
- okruglu (prečnika oko 27cm). Jedna korica - 3 ili 4 belanca, a ako želite tanku koricu - 2 belanca. Ako se opredelim za 4 korice, onda mutim svaku od po 3 belanca (ukupno 12). Za tri korice, posebno mutim svaku posebno od 4 belanaca (ukupno 12). I na kraju, 6 tankih korica, posebno mutim svaku od po 2 belanca (ukupno 12). 
- po želji, može biti sa tri, četiri ili čak šest korica.  Ako se odlučite za šest korica, trebalo bi da budu tanke,
- Reforma ne treba da bude suviše visoka, nego niža, elegantna i prefinjena.
- može da se seče na šnite, trouglove, kocke, čak i kao sitan kolač. Ako se seče kao "sitan kolač" neka bude sa dve korice, ili tri tanje.
- Što se tiče ukrašavanja, neka bude minimalno i sa stilom! Napraviti nepravilne šare viljuškom ili kašikom, posuti mlevenim orasima, jednostavno zabosti svež pupoljak ruže ili neki drugi cvet.  

Torta će biti fantastična bez obzira na oblik i veličinu koju odabereta. Moja omiljena varijanta je okrugla reforma sa šest tankih korica - probajte! 

Da bih malo skratila vreme pripreme, ovaj put sam napravila pravougaonu tortu sa četiri korice (svaka 18x30cm). Pekla sam dve veće korice u plehu 36x30cm pa presekla svaku na pola po šrini.

Redosled pripreme - Prvo skuvati fil. Dok se fil hladi, ispeći korice. Zatim umutiti puter i sjediniti ga sa ohlađenim filom, za to vreme će se i korice ohladiti. Na kraju nafilovati tortu i ostaviti je da odstoji najmanje do sutradan. 

Pripremiti 12 krupnijih jaja. Pažljivo odvojiti žumanca od belanaca. Svih 12 žumanaca stavljati u šerpu u kojoj će se kuvati fil. Za belanca pripremiti dve posude za mućenje, pa u svaku staviti po 6  belanaca i odložiti ih u frižider, dok se ne završi kuvanje fila.

Fil:
Penasto umutiti 12 žumanaca sa 375g šećera u prahu, pa u to dodati 100g izlomljene kvalitetne crne čokolade. Ukoliko želite fil sa jačim ukusom čokolade - dodati 300g čokolade. U oba slučaja biće savršeno ukusan.

Kada voda provri, staviti odozgo šerpu sa umućenim žumancima i izlomljenom čokoladom pa kuvati na pari, uz neprekidno mućenje žicom. Fil je skuvan kada se zgusne toliko da se vidi dno šerpe kada varjačom povučete po dnu, a žica za mućenje ostavlja tragove po površini i kada je podignete fil teže kaplje sa nje. Drugi način da se proveri da li je fil skuvan - na tacnu staviti malo fila i ostaviti kratko, da se ohladi. Ako ne curi kada se tacna postavi ukoso, znači da je gotovo. 

Skuvan fil pokriti providnom folijom po površini, ostaviti da se potpuno ohladi do sobne temperature!!! Ne sme da bude čak ni mlak u trenutku kada se dodaje puter.

Penasto umutiti 375g putera. U puter dodavati ohlađen čokoladni krem, malo po malo, uz mućenje. 

Imate dve opcije:
- Puter i krem mute se mikserom - fil će biti vazdušastiji i malo će da posvetli. 
- Puter i krem sjedine se varjačom - fil će imati tamniju boju.

Korice:

Pleh obložiti papirom za pečenje, ili podmazati mašću i posuti brašnom. Brašno ravnomerno rasporediti po površini, laganim lupkanjem pleha odozdo, a višak ukloniti. 

Izvaditi iz frižidera jednu činiju sa 6 belanaca, dodati prstohvat soli i umutiti ih u čvrst šne (sneg). Zatim dodati 187g šećera, iz nekoliko puta, uz neprekidno mućenje mikserom. Kada je šne sa šećerom dobro umućen, dodati 187g mlevenih oraha.  Sve "ovlaš", lagano, izmešati varjačom. Ako reformu pravite prvi put, u mlevene orahe dodati 2 ravne kašike brašna. Na taj način pečene korice će se lakše vaditi iz pleha. Masu od belanaca i oraha izručiti u pleh, poravnati i peći na 180°C. Pošto je u pitanju fina smesa od belanaca i oraha, koja uz to nije ni suviše debela, ne treba puno vremena da se ispeče. Da bi korice bile sočne, ne treba da se prepeku!!! Gotovo je čim ivice blago porumene, malo se odvoje od stranice pleha i izvučete čistu čačkalicu kada bocnete koru negde na sredini. Ispečenu koru pažljivo izvaditi iz pleha (sa sve papirom za pečenje) ostaviti da se ohladi. Teško je "u minut" odrediti vreme potrebno da se korica ispeče. To zavisi od debljine sloja smese, tačne temperature u rerni, čak i od materijala od kog je pleh napravljen... Zato su najbolje "trivijalne" metode procene - bacite pogled kroz staklo rerne i povremeno bocnite koricu.

Dok se prva korica hladi, na isti način umutiti i drugu koricu od preostalih 6 belanaca. Ohlađene korice preseći na dva jednaka dela, tako da se dobiju 4 manje. 

Na kraju, nafilovati korice. Takođe, tortu odozgo i okolo premazati istim filom. Ukrasiti po sopstvenom ukusu, ali nikako ne sme biti kič, nego jednostavno i sa stilom! Recimo, nepravilnim potezima kašike/viljuške, ili posuti mlevenim orasima i staviti svež pupoljak ruže... Treba da odstoji bar preko noći pre služenja. Može da se napravi i par dana unapred. Torta je kompaktna, može da se seče i kao sitan kolač.

Ako nikad niste pravili Reform tortu, opustite se i krenite u akciju!!! Nije komplikovano.

Još par napomena:
- Korice se peku u prethodno zagrejanoj rerni na 180°C (bez ventilatora).
- Pleh obložiti papirom za pečenje, lakše je za manipulaciju. Drugi način je da se pleh podmaže mašću i pospe brašnom, pa se otrese višak brašna. Moje iskustvo je da je mast bolja za podmazivanje od recimo putera, margarina ili ulja, najlepše se vade korice nakon pečenja.
- Мutiti samo onoliko belanca koliko je potrebno za pečenje jedne korice (zavisi od veličine pleha), ili ne više od dve od jednom. Na taj način, smesa neće izgubiti vazdušastu strukturu, što bi moglo da se desi ako bi duže stajala.
- Reforma može da se pravi i sa orasima, i sa lešnicima. 
- Paziti da se korice ne prepeku (bocnuti čačkalicom). Ako se prepeku, biće krte i krckave. Čak i ako se ovo desi, bez nervoze, biće podjednako ukusne - u tom slučaju ostaviti tortu da odstoji pre služenja dva dana.
- Napraviti tortu najmanje dan ranije. 
- Tortu čuvati u frižideru ili u hladnom špajzu, ali je izvaditi pola sata pre služenja - najlepša je na sobnoj temperaturi. Leti, kada je pretoplo, ne važi pravilo za sobnu temperaturu.
- Ne verujem da će puno torte ostati, ali ako baš ostane - u frižideru može da stoji i do nedelju dana, a odlična je i nakon zamrzavanja.  

Sastojci: 12 jaja, 375g šećera, 375g mlevenih oraha ili lešnika, 4 ravne kašike brašna (opciono), 375g šećera u prahu, 100g kvalitetne crne čokolade (ili 300g za "pojačani" fil), 375g putera.

Reform cake (vintage walnut and chocolate cake)

Reform cake is one of the princesses among fine cakes. Our grandmothers' recipes are the same, or very similar. Here, I give my contribution, to save our beautiful cakes from oblivion. Vintage cakes are simple yet masterpieces of confectionery.

For every cake, there is a ruling principle "make it when in a good mood". Don't rush! Therefore, in addition to the necessary ingredients, you need to have time, patience and to make it with love!

First, think about the size of the cake you need and the sizes of the trays you have.

You can do it in any shape that fits your needs:
- rectangular (about 13x40cm) - the oven should be larger than standard, to fit a larger tray 40x40cm, bake one biscuit, which after cooling is divided into three equal parts. Make it of 8-10 egg whites.
- rectangular but slightly wider (about 20x30cm) - these are the dimensions of those classic tins that were most often used for baking. One biscuit - 4 egg whites (125g sugar, 125g ground walnuts, optionally 1 flat spoonful of flour).
- round (diameter about 27 cm). One biscuit - 3 or 4 egg whites, and if you want a thin crust - 2 egg whites. If I make four layers, then I whip each layer separately, of the 3 egg whites (12 in total). For three layers, I whip each of 4 egg whites (12 in total). And finally, 6 very thin biscuit layers, I mix each  of the 2 egg whites (12 in total).
- This cake can be made with three, four or even six biscuit layers. If you opt for six, they should be thin.
- Reform cake should not be too high, but lower, elegant and subtle.
- can be cut into slices, triangles, cubes, even as "amuse bouche". If it is cut as a bite size, it should have two biscuits, or three thinner ones.
- As for decorating - keep it minimal and stylish! Make some patterns with a fork or spoon, sprinkle with ground walnuts, simply stick a fresh rose bud or some other flower.

The cake will be fantastic regardless of the shape and size you choose. My favorite variant is the round one with six thin layers - try it! It's not complicated.

To save some time, this one I made rectangular with four layers (each 18x30cm). I baked two larger biscuits, in a 36x30cm tray, and cut each in half. 

First, make the chocolate cream. While the filling is cooling, bake the biscuits. Then whisk the butter and combine it with the cooled chocolate cream. Finally, fill the cake and leave it at least 24h before serving.

Prepare 12 larger eggs. Carefully separate the egg yolks from the egg whites. Put all 12 egg yolks in the cooking pot. Take two mixing bowls for the egg whites, then put 6 egg whites in each and put them in the fridge until the filling is finished.

Filling:

Whisk 12 egg yolks with 375 g of powdered sugar, until pale and fluffy. Add 100g of dark chocolate, broken into pieces. Cook the cream on "Bain Marie", while constantly whisking. If you want a filling with a stronger taste of chocolate - add 300g of chocolate. In both cases, it will be perfectly tasty.

The filling is cooked when it thickens at the consistency of mayonnaise. Another way to check if the filling is done - put a tea spoon of filling on the cold coffee plate and leave it a minute to cool and check the consistency. 

Cover the cooked filling with a cling film, leave it to cool completely to room temperature!!! It must not even be lukewarm when the butter is added.

Whisk 375g of butter. Add the cooled chocolate cream to the butter, one tablespoon at a time, while whisking. Should not be runny!

You have two options:
- Butter and cream are mixed with a mixer - the filling will be more airy and lighter brown color.
- Butter and cream are gently combined with a spatula - the filling will have a darker color.

Biscuit layers:

Line a baking tray (36x30cm) with baking paper, or grease and sprinkle with flour. Spread the flour evenly on the surface, lightly tapping the tray from below, and remove the excess.

Take one bowl of 6 egg whites out of the fridge, add a pinch of salt and whisk them into a stiff peaks meringue. Now add 187g of sugar, whisking constantly with a mixer. Finally add 187g of ground walnuts. Stir gently, with spatula to incorporate walnuts. If you make the cake for the first time, feel free to add 2 tablespoons of flour to the ground walnuts. This way, you will prevent the baked biscuit from sticking or breaking. Transfer the mixture into a baking tray, level and bake at 180 °C (no ventilation). Since it is a fine mixture of egg whites, sugar and walnuts, which is not too thick, it does not take much time to bake. Do not overbake!!! It's done as soon as the edges turn slightly brown, they separate a bit from the side of the tray and inserted toothpick comes out clean. Carefully remove the baked layer from the baking tray (along with the baking paper) and leave to cool. The exact baking time depends on the thickness of the layer, the exact temperature in the oven, tray size... That is why the best method is the "trivial" one - take a look through the oven glass and occasionally prick the biscuit. It should not be dry. 

While the first biscuit is cooling, whisk the second one of the remaining 6 egg whites in the same way. Cut the cooled biscuit into two equal parts, so that 4 smaller ones are obtained.

Finally, assemble the Reform cake by alternating layers of biscuit and filling. Also, cover the top and sides with the same chocolate buttercream. Decorate to your own taste, but keep it simple and stylish! Make some shapes with a spoon or fork, sprinkle with ground walnuts and give it a finishing touch with a fresh rose bud... Leave it overnight before serving. This cake can be made up to 2-3 days in advance and kept in a fridge. The cake holds its shape very well so it can be cut even in a smaller pieces. 

If you have never made a Reform cake, relax and get into action!!! It is not complicated at all - just a few ingredients which lead to delicious vintage dessert. 

A few more notes for recapitulation:
- Bake the layers in a preheated oven at 180 °C (without fan).
- Cover the baking tray with baking paper, it is easier to manipulate. Another way is to grease the pan and sprinkle with flour, then shake off the excess flour. My experience is that lard is better for this purpose than, butter, margarine or oil. 
- Whisk only as many egg whites as needed to bake one crust (depending on the size of the pan), or no more than two at a time. That way, the mixture will not lose its airy structure, which could happen if it stays longer.
- Reform cake can be made with walnuts and hazelnuts.
- Make sure to not overbake the layers (prick with a toothpick). If they are overbaked, they will be crunchy and break easily. Even if this happens, stay calm, it will be equally delicious - just leave the filled cake for two days before serving.
- Make a cake at least a day in advance.
- Store the cake in the refrigerator or in a cold pantry, but take it out half an hour before serving - it is best served at room temperature. In summer, when it is too hot, the room temperature rule does not apply.
- I doubt that you will have a lot of leftover cake. Keep it in a fridge for up to a week, or freeze it.

Ingredients: 12 eggs, 375g sugar, 375g ground walnuts or hazelnuts, 4 tablespoons of flour (optional), 375g powdered sugar, 100g quality dark chocolate (or 300g for more "chocolaty" filling), 375g butter.